Sewage unclog

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=howTo&p=Improve/ClrDrains.html

Projects

Tiling a Bathroom Wall

paint the cabinets

Tools:

• Screwdriver
• Palm sander
• Roller or paintbrush
• Power sprayer

Kitchen cabinets take more abuse than any other piece of woodwork in your home. They are opened and closed innumerable times a day, and they are located in the room where the air conditions would be destructive to any kind of woodwork. In one moment the room can be very dry - like when your oven is on a high temperature for a long period of time - and a few minutes later the room can be near 100 percent humidity when you start steaming vegetables or boil a large pot of water.

These constant atmospheric changes can wreak havoc on the structural soundness of your cabinets, as well as on the finish. As if these harsh conditions weren't enough, the surface finish of your cabinets is constantly exposed to fingers that are covered with grease, butter, meat, etc. All of these things play a major role in explaining why your cabinets may look like they could use some refreshment.

Before you begin re-painting your cabinets, there are a few details that you need to consider to ensure that you are satisfied with the result. Are your cabinets painted now or are they finished with a stain and varnish (or lacquer)? If they are painted, do you want to paint them the same color? Take some time to visualize what you want your refreshed kitchen to look like before you decide. This could be an opportunity for you to not only get the cabinets cleaned up, but to completely change their look.

1. Clean the cabinets. Preparation is the most important step in the process of painting your cabinets, and it is very important to make sure that all of the surfaces you are going to paint are completely free of all grease, grime, food residue and whatever else may be stuck to them. You will find the entire process is much easier if you remove all the cabinet doors. Once you have taken them all down, find a place where you can lay them out flat. Use an all purpose cleaner and a rag and then allow them to dry thoroughly.

2. Sand the cabinets. Once they are dry, use a piece of fine grit sandpaper - 150 or finer - and make a few passes over all the flat surfaces of the doors. Don't forget to do the thin facing pieces on the cabinet boxes themselves. The slightly sanded surface will allow the primer to bite and hold onto the cabinet surface. It can be a tedious process, but taking the time to lightly sand your cabinets before you prime and paint them will greatly increase longevity of the paint job. Don't underestimate the importance of this step!

Need to clearn the surface with tack cloth.

Tape or mask off all the areas not to paint.

3. Apply primer. After sanding, it's time to prime the cabinets. Primer forms a better bond with the surface than paint alone would. This means that the paint is less likely to chip and peel if it gets bumped with dishes or pots and pans. If your cabinets are already painted and you are re-painting them the same color, it is OK to skip this step and go ahead and apply the paint. If, however, your cabinets are stained and you are trying to cover up the natural wood grain with paint, you must prime them first. The paint will not stick to the varnished surface and the color of the stain will most likely bleed right through your paint.There are several types of primer that you can use, and which one you choose is largely based on what kind of paint you want to use over the top. If you are using an oil-based paint, an interior oil based primer is recommended. These products tend to have a very strong odor and they are best used when you can properly ventilate the room. The best option would be to take all the doors that you removed out to the garage and paint them there with the overhead door open.If you are planning to use a latex paint for your top coat, then a shellac based primer is recommended. This product tends to dry fairly quickly, so make sure that you are ready to go before you begin applying it. The shellac based primers, just like the oil based, carry a very strong odor and caution should be used.

4. Paint the cabinets. At this point, after sanding and priming, your cabinet doors probably look awful! Don't worry, you've built a great foundation for the top coats of paint, which will bring your kitchen bouncing back to life. There are several ways to apply the paint. A pneumatic sprayer is the best way to get a smooth and glossy finish. If you don't have access to one, however, don't panic - you can still get a great finish by using a high quality paint brush. 2 1/2" to 3" would be ideal.The key to achieving a professional finish with a brush is to use very thin coats. It may be tempting, after all the work you've already to done, to try to coat the paint on as thick as possible just so you can be finished. This is not a good idea. The best and most durable paint jobs are built up by consecutive thin layers of paint, not just one thick one.

5. Add additional coats. Lightly apply your first coat and let it dry completely. If you really want to achieve a professional finish, take some 400 grit sandpaper and very lightly sand the flat surfaces again. You are not trying to remove the paint, but instead are insuring that the next coat has the smoothest possible surface to adhere to. Once that is complete, add your second coat.In most cases two coats of paint will be sufficient. Occasionally, though, you may find that you get better results from three. This is often true with woods that carry a heavier grain, like oak. Once the doors are painted and fully dry, simply hang them back up, sit back, and enjoy the bright, clean and renewed space that you've worked so hard to achieve.

What to Do When Your Garbage Disposal Stops

When your garbage disposal stops working, there are a few potential solutions. First, there is generally a small red button on the underside of the garbage disposal that "resets" the system. If you get nothing when flipping the switch (and you have already checked the circuit breaker), lean down and take a look at the underside of the garbage disposal. Push in that little red button and hope for the best. If the disposal was just overworked, or if there was a power surge, this may fix the problem. Simple, clean, and cheap.

But what if it doesn't work, you ask? Garbage disposals come with a funky looking tool, shaped like a squared-off "s" and hexagonal in shape. If you look at the end, you should see a flat piece of metal with six sides, hence the hexagon. Now, I said the disposals come with this tool, that doesn't mean that you still have it. If you don't, a quick trip to the hardware store will replace it for about $3.00. Now, with this tool in hand, look at the bottom of the garbage disposal, near that little red button. You should find a hole in which this tool will fit. Slip it in there and turn the wrench a few times. This manually forces the garbage disposal to turn, breaking up any hard pieces or goop that may have caused the disposal to stop. A few turns should do the trick. Hop back up and flip the switch. Fixed? Most likely so. If not, you can pay someone to come take a look at it, which will likely cost you hundreds, or you can buy a new disposal and install it yourself, costing yourself no more than a couple hours and $100.

Home Depot and Lowe's each carry several brands of garbage disposals, ranging from about $50 to over $200, but does anyone truly need a garbage disposal that has a silencer on it? Didn't think so. The middle of the road, 1/2 horsepower, or maybe even 2/3 HP should do it for your family. Grab the disposal you want, and make sure you have a screwdriver at home. Now the next steps for installation should be used as a gauge of difficulty, or to supplement the instructions. By no means am I an expert.

First, and most importantly, you want to go flip the breaker to the disposal and make sure no electricity is running to it. Now go study the way the pipes connect to the garbage disposal, because you are going to have to repeat it. Start by disconnecting the pipes going into the disposal. There should be one main one going into the side, that can most easily be disconnected by unscrewing the connector to the disposal. There may also be a pipe connecting the dishwasher to the disposal. If not, your job is even easier.

Your disposal either has a plug coming out of it (hopefully) that plugs directly into a receptacle under the sink, or it is wired directly. If it plugs in, unplug it, skip down a step, then come back to rewire the new disposal. If not, continue reading here. Now, go back to the underside of the disposal, and find where the wires go inside. Unscrew the faceplace right near the wires. Inside, there should be three wires. Most likely they are white, black, and either a bare copper wire, or copper covered in green plastic. These wires are joined somewhere, where the wires going directly into the motor are spliced together (either tape or little screw cap things) with the wires coming out of the wall. Disconnect the wires. Now your disposal should be hanging from the sink, but with nothing else connected to it. Take your screwdriver and slide it into one of the metal tube-like things towards the top (there should be three). While supporting the garbage disposal from the bottom, and pushing up slightly, use the screw driver to turn the base clockwise. Use a little muscle, and the disposal should disconnect from the sink and come out in your hands.

Now you have successfully disconnected your current disposal. Congratulations.
Now, you need to learn how to put the new one in, which is basically the exact opposite. First, you will want to reconnect the wires to the wall, using the same screw caps or some electric tape (preferably the screw caps). Make sure you connect green to green, white to white, black to black, etc. Now, lift the disposal up, work it into the clamps, and using the screwdriver, twist counter-clockwise, and the disposal should connect right back under the sink. Now, connect the pipes back the way they were, and you are done! I recommend running a little water through it to make sure it is sealed properly before you turn the power back on. Once you make sure the pipes are sealed, turn the breaker back on, run some cold water, cross your fingers, and flip the switch to the disposal. Ahhh...music to your ears. Who would have thought changing out a garbage disposal would be so easy???

Sprinker system

How to Repair a Leaking Irrigation System
http://www.ehow.com/how_118407_repair-leaking-irrigation.html

Basic Electrical Overview

You don't have to be an electrician to replace a light fixture. Many homeowners are afraid to tackle electrical projects—and rightly so. If improperly handled, electricity poses electrocution and fire hazards. But simple jobs like light fixture replacements are easy and safe if you follow a few simple rules. Lowe's is happy to provide this information as a service to you.
The most basic principles of the wiring in your home are simple. The following is elementary information from which every homeowner can benefit:
In contemporary wiring, individual wires run in a sheathed cable. "Two-wire with ground" and "three-wire with ground" cables are available. Two-wire with ground cables have a black wire, a white wire and an uninsulated ground. Three-wire with ground cables have a black wire, a white wire, a red wire and an uninsulated ground. Older houses may have "knob and tube" wiring—a two-wire system. With this system, individual wires are insulated with white or black treated fabric.
Regardless of the type of wiring in your home, the white wire is usually the neutral wire, the black wire is "hot," and the exposed copper wires are ground wires. The white wire is sometimes used as a hot wire because some wiring installations require it. In this case, the white wire should be coded black with paint or electrical tape. Note, however, that it is possible that whoever did the wiring may not have coded the wire. If a red wire is present, it should also be hot.
Switches may be wired at the end or in the middle of a circuit. If only a single cable enters the box (or one set of black and white wires), the fixture is at the end of the circuit. This is usually, but not always, the situation with ceiling light fixtures. If two cables enter the box (or two sets of black and white wires in older "knob and tube" installations), the fixture is in the middle of a circuit. A third cable (or set of black and white wires) may also enter the fixture, depending upon the installation. The placement of the fixture within the circuit affects how it is wired.
The black, or hot wires, are connected to the brass screw terminals on receptacles and switches. The neutral wires are connected to the silver terminals. Ground wires should not be ignored. They should be connected to each other, to the grounding screw terminals (painted green) on receptacles, and to grounding screws in metal electrical boxes when metal boxes are used.

Pigtail leads are short wires which are connected to terminals on receptacles or switches. The leads are then connected to the home wiring using plastic wire connectors. Codes in some areas require that pigtails be used on all standard receptacle connections. Always use pigtails when more than one wire must be connected to a single terminal.

The men keeping the house in order

Plumber:

1. Water supply system
2. Drainage system and sewage system
3. Venting system
4. Heating and air conditioning system.

For example: check the leak of bathroom, drainage, exhaust fan venting, tiling leakage, garage water pipe/gas, sprinker, etc.

Electrician:

1. Wiring;
2. Install the electrical device (exhaust fan, i.e)
3. Lighting system;
4. etc.

Ventilation Fans Solve Bathroom Moisture Woes

By Paul Bianchina
One of the most important fixtures in the bathroom is also one of the least expensive and least noticeable - the ventilation fan. Mounted in the ceiling or in the wall, ventilation fans help rid the bathroom of odors and, more importantly, of potentially damaging moisture.

There are really four things you need to be concerned about in the selection and installation of a bathroom ventilation fan - air movement capacity, noise level, ducting and optional accessories. Each plays an important role in the fan's proper operation.


Air Movement Capcity

Ventilation fans are rated as to the amount of air they can move in cubic feet per minute (CFM), and determining how large a fan you need should be your first consideration.

First, you need to measure the air volume in the bathroom, which is simply a matter of the room's width times its length times its height. For example, if your bathroom is seven feet by 10 feet and has an eight-foot high ceiling, multiply 7 x 10 x 8 to arrive at 560, which is the number of cubic feet of air in the room.

For effective ventilation, a fan should have the capacity to completely change the air in the bathroom about 10 times per hour. For 560 cubic feet, the fan needs to move about 5600 cubic feet of air per hour (560 x 10 air changes per hour). Remember that ventilation fans are rated in cubic feet per minute, so you need to divide by 60 to convert the cubic feet per hour to cubic feet per minute. In this case, you would need a fan with a capacity of approximately 93 CFM (5600 / 60). You won't find a fan with that exact capacity - 100 CFM will probably be the closest.

Noise Levels

In order to be effective, a bath fan needs to be used, and that usually won't happen if it's too noisy. For that reason, the second consideration in the selection of your fan should be the amount of noise it makes while in operation.

In addition to the CFM rating discussed above, ventilation fans also carry a noise rating, listed in sones. Several things affect how loud or quite a fan is - its air-moving capacity, the type of fan blade assembly being used, how much insulation is placed in the fan housing, and where the fan is located. As you probably would expect, the quieter the fan is, the more you can expect to pay for it.

For the 100 CFM fan in the example above, the lower cost models will have a sone rating around 4.0 to 4.5 with a cost of around $40 to $50. At the quieter end of the spectrum, you'll find ones rated at a much quieter 2.5 sones, and the price goes up to about $100. Fans are a long-term investment, and the quieter unit is well worth the extra initial cost.

Installation and Ducting

Most fans are designed for direct ceiling mounting within the bathroom itself. There are also fans designed to mount in the wall, and fans, which mount in a remote location - up in the attic, for example -- to further cut down on noise.

The typical bathroom exhaust fan is basically a square metal box with two adjustable arms attached to it. The box contains the fan motor and blade assembly and a round outlet port for ducting. The two adjustable arms attach to the ceiling joists to support the fan in the desired location. A decorative grill covers the fan and completes the installation.

Remember that the primary function of a ventilation fan is to get rid of moisture, so it's crucial that the unit be vented all the way to the outside of the house. Venting a fan into the attic simply takes the moisture from the room and puts it up into the attic, where it can do just as much long-term damage to your house - it's also a violation of the building codes.

Most fans used in residential bathrooms have a 4" outlet port, which allows for easy connection to 4" solid or flexible metal ducting - the use of flexible 4" dryer hose is also not allowed by the building codes. The outlet port also contains a one-way spring-loaded damper, which is simply a weather-stripped metal or plastic flap that opens when the fan is turned on, and then closes again when the fan shuts off to prevent cold outside air from coming back into the room.

The exhaust ducting needs to run to a screened and covered opening in the roof, or to a screened opening in the blocking between the trusses or rafters - the dealer where you purchase the fan can help you select the right type of ducting and cap for your particular installation. Remember to install the ducting in a smooth run with no low spots where moisture can condense and accumulate.

Options

Fans are available as a fan only; a fan/light, which combines an incandescent or fluorescent ceiling light with the fan; a fan/heater, which combines the fan with a forced air heater or one or two heat bulbs; and a fan/heat/light, which combines all three. You'll also have a number of options for how to control the unit, ranging from a single switch that turns on the fan and light at the same time to multiple switches that control each function separately. You can use a simple dial timer to ensure that the heater or fan shuts off after a certain number of minutes, or a 24-hour timer that turns the fan on and off at preset times to help with ongoing ventilation needs. Finally, you'll find a number of options for the grill, ranging from plain white plastic to brass, gold and wood trim.

Ventilation fans are available at home centers, plumbing and electrical stores, as well as a number of discount stores and other retail outlets.

Install a Bathroom Exhaust Fan

Keeping mold and mildew out of your bathroom can be a never ending battle. Every time you run hot water, you create steam. That steam penetrates every crevice, and soon cools down and turns to water. When this happens in a protected area that doesn't dry efficiently, you have created a prime breeding ground for a multitude of mold spores.

While there are many products on the market that will kill the spores and clean the stains they leave behind, the best treatment is prevention. The key to preventing mold and mildew is to get the moist air out of the bathroom before it has a chance to condense. An exhaust fan is the best way to do this.

A small exhaust fan, typically mounted in the ceiling, pulls the moist air right out of the bathroom and sends it up an exhaust pipe. There are a wide range of fans available for you to choose from, and whether you are installing one for the first time or replacing an inefficient one, it will make a major difference in the battle against mold.

Exhaust Fan Types and Quality

There are several different styles of exhaust fans, as well as levels of quality. The first choice that you need to make is whether or not you want a light integrated into your unit. If so, then this is going to require a little bit more electrical expertise during the installation stage. But by getting a unit that is integrated, you can add a fan without having to create two separate openings in your ceiling to house both a light and the fan.

As far as quality is concerned, there are typically two measuring factors that determine quality. The amount of air the fan moves is measured in CFM, which stands for cubic feet per minute, and is essentially a measurement of how much air the fan will remove per minute. The higher quality fans will move more air than a lower quality one. The other unit of quality measure is found in how loud the unit is. Most manufacturers put a noise rating right on the package. The quieter the unit, the higher the quality.

Tools and Supplies

Once you have selected the product you want to install, it's time to make sure that you have all of the necessary tools. You will need the following:


Screwdrivers: You'll probably need both a Phillips and flat-head. These are used for the mounting brackets within the electrical box and the housing on the fan.
Wire stripper: You will use this to prepare the wires in your ceiling. You'll have to strip 1/2" to 5/8" from each wire so that it can be attached to the wire that comes pre-installed into the motor of your new unit.
Wire Nuts: They will probably come with your new unit, but it's a good idea to have a few extra lying around. The yellow ones should be the appropriate size for this project.
Exhaust Duct Kit: If you don't already have a fan system in place, you will need to install a vent to relocate the air that you are sucking out of your bathroom. You can buy a kit that comes with all of the necessary pieces to do this.
Electrical Tester: You will use this to make sure that you have continuity and that your wiring is correct.
Jab Saw: This will be used to cut the access hole in your ceiling.

Wiring the fan. Unfortunately, the wiring in every house is a little bit different. If your bathroom light is already wired into a wall switch, then that is the best place for you to wire your fan. Since every situation is going to be unique, I would recommend buying a book on electrical work. It will sketch out the many different options and types of switches and how each one should be wired. With different colors of wire and varying sizes, it's best to have it all laid out clearly in front of you.

Opening the ceiling. Ideally, your new exhaust fan will be mounted right over the hole in your ceiling where the light is. In the rare instance that you don't have an overhead light in your bathroom, you will need to create an opening. Use the duct kit that you purchased to determine how big the hole should be. The plasterboard ceiling can be cut with the jab saw. The cut doesn't have to perfect since the outside housing of the fan will cover any mistakes, but you still want to be fairly accurate so that you don't lose any insulation value around the outside of the duct pipe.

Installing the duct kit. You will need to mount the box that your fan will hang on right above the hole. This box can be attached directly to the joist or, if the hole is too far from the joist, you can use the special hanger that comes with the kit. This hanger consists of a steel bar that lays across the joists and allows the box to slide back and forth, so that you can locate it directly over the hole. Attach the length of duct hose onto the mounting bracket.

Venting to the outside. Once the hose is run up into the attic, you will need to find your way to the closest roof soffit. Cut a hole into the soffit according to the instructions that came with your kit, and attach the hose to the vent that mounts on the outside of the soffit. This vent should also be included in your kit. Since the soffit faces down, you don't have to worry about rain, snow or other debris getting into the exhaust pipe, and the moist air from your bathroom will be safely pumped outside.

By taking the time and investing the money required to get this fan installed, you will actually be saving yourself time and money in the long run. The damage that can be caused by mold and mildew, when they are allowed to go unchecked, can be quite costly and messy to repair. Installing your exhaust fan will save you cleaning time, and will help protect the already large investment that you have made in your home.

Greenhouse tips

LIVING ROOM
Power outlet vs. Power strip: Plugging your TV and VCR/DVD into a power strip rather than an outlet will save you about 2 percent on your annual electricity bill. Even when you turn these appliances off, they continuously leak up to 15 watts of electricity if they're plugged into an outlet. When plugged into a power strip, however, these appliances leak only about one to three watts.

Standard door vs. Standard door with storm door: Because a storm door provides more insulation than just a standard door, you can save—depending on your climate zone—up to 2 percent more on your annual energy costs. Doors are among the common places where air escapes, and drafty doorways can account for up to 2 to 3 percent of leakage in an average house. But a word of advice: Don't install exterior glass storm doors where they would receive direct sunlight. Exterior storm doors can trap heat, which can damage the entry door.

KITCHEN
Hand wash vs. Dishwasher: You'll use up to 35 percent less water by doing a full load of dishes, which haven't been pre-rinsed, in your dishwasher instead of by hand. You can also save about 15 percent on total dishwasher energy use if you select the air-dry setting or open the dishwasher's door instead of using its drying cycle.

Freezer on the side vs. Freezer on the top or bottom: A fridge with a top or bottom freezer will save 15 percent more in annual refrigerated-related energy costs than a side-by-side model, which lets more chilled air escape. To be greener still, steer clear of refrigerators with icemakers and water dispensers in the door. They can increase energy use by almost 20 percent.

Gas oven with electric ignition vs. Electric oven: A gas oven is 50 percent more efficient than an electric oven. If you're interested in cutting costs further, try baking with glass or ceramic pans instead of metal. An electric ignition also helps save gas because its pilot light is not continuously burning.

BEDROOM
Incandescent bulbs vs. Compact fluorescent bulbs: Fluorescent bulbs will save you between 50 and 75 percent in annual lighting costs over incandescent bulbs. Even though these bulbs are initially more expensive, they give off less heat and last up to ten times longer than incandescent ones. If you do have incandescent bulbs, think about installing a dimmer switch and reducing your bulbs' brightness by half. This will make them last longer.

Laptop computer vs. Desktop computer: A laptop will give you annual computer-related energy savings of as much as 50 percent over a desktop. For additional savings, enable the sleep mode on your laptop after five minutes of inactivity. If you have a desktop computer with an old-cathode ray tube (CRT) monitor, consider replacing it with a liquid crystal display (LCD) screen. A 14-inch (35-centimeter) LCD monitor uses up to 75 percent less energy than a 14-inch CRT monitor.

Single-pane window vs. Double-pane window: Depending on your climate, you can reduce your utility bill by as much as 10 percent with double-pane windows. To save even more, look for windows with the Energy Star label. They meet strict energy-efficiency guidelines set by the U.S. government and can save up to 15 percent in any climate. However, if your home already has single-pane windows and you live in a cold climate, consider storm windows. They're almost as efficient as double-pane windows and cheaper. Other affordable options include caulking and weather stripping.

UTILITY ROOM
Furnace thermostat above 68°F (20°C) vs. Below 68°F during cold weather: Each degree set below 68°F (20°C) during colder weather uses 3 to 5 percent less heating energy than each degree set above 68°F. You can also buy a programmable thermostat to make these temperature changes for you automatically. And here's another tip to keep your furnace efficient: Change your air filter once a month during heavy usage.

Top-load washer vs. Front-load washer: A front-load washer will cut your water and washer-related energy use by more than half over a top-load washer. You only need about 10 to 20 gallons (40 to 80 liters) of water to do a full load, while a top-load washer would have required about 40 gallons (150 liters). If you want to increase your savings even more, wash only with cold water the next time you empty your hamper.

Tankless water heater (heats water instantly) vs. Storage tank water heater (conventional water heater): Tankless water heaters are about 10 to 30 percent more energy efficient than storage tanks, which constantly have to keep water warm and are common in most U.S. homes. Popular in Japan and Europe, tankless models heat water only as needed in the pipe. If you're not in the market for a new water heater anytime soon, insulate your water pipes to reduce heat loss. From the tank, insulate at least the first six feet (two meters) of pipe.

Electric dryer vs. Gas dryer: A gas dryer will save you about 50 percent in annual dryer energy costs over an electric model. And if you use the moisture sensor, a feature on newer electric and gas models that automatically shuts off the dryer when clothes are dry, you'll trim another 15 percent. But keep one thing in mind: Hanging your clothes out to dry expends only your own energy.

BATHROOM
Faucet vs. Faucet aerator: A faucet aerator, which restricts water flow, will cut your annual water consumption by 50 percent. You can cut your water use even more by turning off the water when you brush your teeth. This can save up to 4.5 gallons (17 liters) every time you brush. If you shave, fill the basin and you’ll only use a gallon of water instead of the 15 gallons (57 liters) that would have gone down the drain if you’d kept the faucet running.

Bath vs. Shower with low-flow head: If you keep your shower to seven minutes under a low-flow showerhead, you'll use about 14 gallons (53 liters) of water or less. Baths usually require about 20 gallons (80 liters), the same as a ten-minute shower.

Low-flow toilet vs. Pre-1994 toilet: A low-flow toilet only uses 1.6 gallons (6.1 liters) per flush, while a pre-1994 model requires about 3.5 gallons (13 liters) per flush. If you have a pre-1994 model, adjust your float valve so it will admit less water into the toilet's tank.

EXTERIOR
Dark shingles vs. Light-colored shingles: Light-colored shingles can save up to 10 percent more on your annual cooling costs than a roof with dark shingles, and up to 20 percent in hot climates like Arizona and Florida.

Gasoline car vs. Hybrid car: Hybrid cars are twice as fuel efficient as gasoline-powered cars, averaging around 50 miles (80 kilometers) to the gallon. Other tips to cut annual fuel consumption include properly inflating your tires, which can improve your gas mileage by around 3.3 percent. Avoiding aggressive driving such as speeding, rapid acceleration, and hard braking is also a good idea. This can reduce gas mileage on the highway by 33 percent and around town by 5 percent. But some of the best ways to save gas are walking, carpooling, or taking public transportation.

Traditional landscape (large lawns) vs. Xeriscaping (native plants): You can use 50 percent less water with a landscape consisting of drought-resistant plants and grasses. Xeriscaping, which is centered on this practice, also advocates small lawns, native plants, efficient irrigation, and mulches, which slow erosion and evaporation. And don’t forget to group together plants with similar watering needs into specific zones.

Pay for the foundation repair

Most homeowners' insurance policies exclude coverage for foundation repair. Only in cases where foundation movements have been caused by sudden and accidental discharge of water from plumbing system, is there a possible chance for coverage.

Homeowners should call insurance agents and ask about coverage for foundation repair, but more than likely insurance will not cover the repair costs. "They used to be covered until about 15 years ago," says Jeffrey Ellison, who has seven years of experience in foundation and construction repair. "Then the insurance companies changed the policy to where foundation repair was only covered if the foundation was caused by a leak under the slab. Then about three to four years ago, when all that mold hysteria started, they even eliminated the plumbing leak case and they have totally stopped paying for foundations."

Because insurance companies no longer assist homeowners with this big cost, homeowners are applying for home equity loans or home improvement loans to pay for the expensive costs. "When hiring a contractor to repair the foundation, the person may be able to assist homeowners in securing necessary financing, but it is very important to investigate where the money is coming from," says Ellison. Carefully compare the amounts, interest rates, terms, and tax consequences of each choice. According to Ellison, Federal Housing Administration loans may be available. Every homeowner should research, ask questions and find out important information before signing any contracts. The FHA does not guarantee work of any contractor, so make sure the person is a reliable contractor.

Before signing on with a contractor, have them inspect the home and give the homeowner an estimate. Estimates are free and it is logical to get several estimates from different contractors. Do not settle for the lowest estimate; rather see who provides better materials and better overall quality of the job. Typically, the lowest price means lower quality in products, which in turn will cause more stress and money later on when the foundation needs to be repaired again. When a contractor is picked, ask for references and any previous work history. Check out these references and find out if the homeowners were pleased with their work. Contact the Better Business Bureau and ask if they had any complaints filed by previous customers. Another important fact to find out is if the contractor has all necessary paperwork, licenses and insurance. If the repair work exceeds a certain amount, such as $30,000, necessary licensed is required. Three insurances must be checked and used by the contractor, says Ken Marlborough, ina an article on foundation repair contractors at ezinearticles.com. The contractor should have Workman's Compensation Insurance, Automobile Insurance and General Liability Insurance, which would compensate the homeowner if the contractor damages any part of the property.

Do not pay the contractor the full amount of services until the work is complete and the homeowner is satisfied with the work. Many situations can occur unforeseen, so every homeowner should be prepared to take necessary steps if destruction occurs.

Signs of house foundation problems

Most house foundation problems will be visible to the eye on the exterior of a house. If a homeowner notices changes to the home, such as cracks, that weren't there before then that could possibly be a foundation problem. The interior of a home will start to show signs as well. If the doors or windows jam when opening or if the walls or doors are cracked, then this is a sign of a foundation problem. A homeowner should look to see if doors start to stick during summer time. The doors may not lock properly, or you may be able to see diagonal cracks coming off the corners of doors and windows. If so, these are signs of foundation problems as well.

According to Jeffery Ellison, who has seven years of experience in foundation and construction repair, if there are foundation problems, there can be diagonal stair-stepping cracks through brick mortar. If a person looks for separation at the corners of a roofline where the trim is, then that is a good indication that the foundation has problems. Also, a homeowner should look on the perimeter of the slab and see if there are cracks.

Poor drainage can be a major contributor to soil moisture gains, which causes foundation problems. Rain that falls into gutters should be directed away from the house and gutter downspouts should not release water next to the foundation, says Michele Dawson, a writer for realtytimes.com. Also, owners of new homes shouldn't assume their homes would be free from foundation problems just because the house is new. "We have done repairs on houses as young as two years old, and many within five years," he told ConcreteNetwork.com, a website devoted to a range of concrete services. "Nine out of ten have bad soil, especially the newer houses."
When it comes to foundation problems, the cost of repairs range from economical to expensive, depending on the severity of the problem. Dawson states that if basement problems aren't fixed, a homeowner could potentially be left with a property value lower than expected, a home that is unhealthy to occupy or an unsound foundation. However, some home issues may not be the cause of a failing foundation. A leaking pipe from sewer may be causing the ground to swell and giving the impression of a bad foundation. Homeowners should call a specialist and have the home looked at because if it is a serious problem and left unresolved then more problems can occur. The foundation will get worse, with additional repairs that can cost more money than expected. Cracked walls, broken water lines, roof separation and cracks in exterior brick can ultimately occur causing the house to decrease in value and leaving the homeowner stuck with problems even worse. Once a foundation begins to fall it needs immediate attention to fix the problem.

As far as prices go, they range from $2,000 upwards to $40,000. A good median price range would be $10,000-$12,000.

Three major types of foundation repairs

There are three major types of foundation repairs that are always used in residence or commercial property. The criteria of which foundation to use are based upon the age and style of the house as well as the soil conditions and goals of the property owner.

According to Jeffery Ellison, who has seven years of experience in repair construction and works for two major foundation repair companies in Austin, Texas, the three advanced methods of foundation repair are concrete press piling, steel press piling and bellbottom piers.

A Bellbottom pier is where you actually drill a hole in the ground, bell it at the bottom, pour concrete down in the hole, and then uses that to lift off of. "That is kind of an antiqued way that was done before the hydraulic depress tiling systems were invented," he says.

For soft clay called Caliche, the method used is steel piling. The reason for using steel piling is that the concrete pilings are six inches in diameter and the steel pilings are less than three inches in diameter. They are so much narrower; they can push through the stiffer soils better than the concrete pilings can.

The steel pier method is considered the best in long lasting support. According to Granite Foundation Repair at granitefoundationrepair.com, the robust steel pier is driven into solid rock or a hard loading bearing strata at pressures of up to 10,000 PSI, and depths of as much as 60 feet. It typically takes one to three days to complete this foundation repair.

Pressed pilings are considered the fast, clean solution. The pre-cast piling is mated with a solid core of steel and concrete, according to Granite Foundation Repair. The pilings are hydraulically driven using an installation force of 5000 PSI. Due to soil mechanics of friction and compression, this system will attain support strength of twice its installation force within one month after installation. "The system consists of pressed concrete pilings topped with a pier cap, blocks and shims," the website states.

Another foundation repair that is economical is to drill or pour concrete piers. Holes are typically drilled to a depth of 9-12 feet below the surface, and then filled with reinforcing steel and concrete. Poured concrete is topped with concrete spacers and shims.

When starting your foundation, the best thing to do is hire a structural engineering firm. They will be the first to board test the soil to recommend which foundation would the best. Once they have tested the soil, the engineer can design a specific slab for the specific soil conditions. "A lot of people do not do this because they do not want to pay any extra cost," says Ellison. "It is usually between $300 to $800 to get an engineer involved on it, but that is money well spent for the homeowner." If a structural engineer checks the soil and recommends a foundation, then a homeowner will not have foundation problems in the future.